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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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FOR THE — 



! GULP STATES 



BY T. J&Y.IACY, 

WASHINGTON, LA. 



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1888: 
PRESS OF TOWN TALK, 

ALEXANDRIA, LA. 



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FRUIT CULTUR 



-FOK T11K 



GULF STATES, 



SOUTH OF LATITUDE 32 DEGREES, 



T, JAY LACY, 

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.WASHINGTON, LA. 



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On 5 1888 ^ 
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1888: 

PRESS OF TOWN TALK. 

ALEXANDRIA, LA. 



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Copyrighted in 1888, 
7. /AY LAC). 



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PREFACE, 

After thirty years experience with fruits and 
fruit trees in Louisiana, we give some practical in- 
formation in fruit growing for the Gulf States, 
south of latitude 32 degrees. 

This book is written in plain language, and 
everything made as short and comprehensive as 
possible. 

The fruits spoken of, are such as we know to 
suit the climate ; such as do not, are left out. 

We make this work a practical guide for those 
who wish to grow fruit largely, as well as for those 
who wish to plant a few trees in their gardens. 



CHAPTER I, 



INTRODUCTION. 

The fruit belt of the United States embraces 
about 5 degrees of latitude, from 35 to 40 degrees. 
In this range more kinds of fruits will succeed 
well than in any other ; though this belt in favor- 
ed localities extends both North and South of this 
range. 

Apples and pears will grow further North thau 
most other fruits, while peaches and plums will 
grow further South. 

When any fruit is grown out of its proper lati- 
tude, there will be a decrease in the production ; 
either diminished in size, shy bearing, or numer- 
ous failures. The peach, for instance, when taken 
far South, out of its home, will often produce a 
few beautiful fruits, but the tree will seldom last 
very long. 

And so it is with any fruit, when taken from 
its proper home, it will be a whole or partial 
failure. 

WHERE TO BUY FRUIT TREES. 

A word about nurserymen, may not be amiss 
here. Nurserymen as a class are probably as hon- 
est as any other business men. though we would 



not like to vouch for them all ; yet every nur- 
seryman makes the best fruit trees he can for his 
own locality, for it is his interest to make trees to 
suit his climate in order to get the trade. 

The Northern nurseryman does not know the 
kind of trees for the South, nor the Southern nur- 
seryman for the North, and if any Southern nur- 
seryman should try to make trees for the North, 
he would find no one there so foolish as to buy 
them. Therefore, we say, buy fruit trees near 
home, where it is the interest of the nurseryman to 
keep up a reputation. 

In the past twenty years, hundreds of dollars 
worth of fruit trees have been purchased in every 
neighborhood in Louisiana, from foreign nurseries, 
and yet very few persons have fruit enough to pay 
for the trees, to say nothing about all the cost and 
trouble of cultivating. The simple reason is, the 
trees were not the varieties to suit the climate. 



CHAPTER IL 



PEARS. 

The pear we shall class as King of Fruits for 
the South, yet we have only two varieties adapted 
to this climate, the LeConte and Kieffer. These 
pears are of Chinese origin, and a sport from the 
Chinese Sand pear, which has been grown in China 
for time unknown. 

Of the Sand pear, there are many varieties, 
some are very large, and all are vigorous growing 
trees, and bear well, but the fruit is of poor 
quality and only fit for cooking. 

The LeConte and Kieffer pears are both seed- 
lings of the Chinese Sand pear, with the health 
and vigor of the parent tree, but with fruit of 
much better quality. 

As near as we can ascertain, Mr. Prince, of 
Long Island, N. Y., was the first to introduce the 
Sand pear from China ; and, by the way, he was the 
leading nurseryman of this country more than 
fifty years ago, when the nursery business was in 
its infancy in the LTnited States. 

It was then supposed that the Sand pear always 
produced the same fruit from seed, as many of the 
Chinese fruits do now ; and in this way he then 
produced them, grafting not being as common 
then as now.. 



CHAPTER III, 

THE LE CONTE PEAR. 

About 1856 Major John LeConte, of Philadel- 
phia, bought some trees at the Prince Nursery, and 
among them was what Mr. Prince supposed to be 
a Chinese Sand pear. The trees were sent to Mrs. 
Harding, of Liberty county, Georgia, where this 
particular tree commenced bearing about twenty- 
five years ago, and is still healthy, vigorous and 
fruitful. As the LeConte was first called Sand 
pear, the name prevented its coming rapidly into 
notice, as every well informed nurseryman knew 
that the Sand pear was of very poor quality. But 
when the LeConte was found to be good, and not 
subject to blight, nurserymen took hold of it with 
a rush, grafted it on all kinds of stock, and con- 
sequently made splendid failures ; for the LeConte 
pear tree is worthless when made on any other 
roots except its own. 

Even now, after so many years experience, many 
Northern nurserymen claim that grafted LeContes 
are quite as good as any other; and many grafted 
LeContes are still being sold all over the country, 
which are not worth planting'; while the LeConte 
on its own roots, is a perfect treasure for thi* 
country, and will bear as bountifully here in the 
South as apples do in the North. 



— y— 

The LeConte is the most rapid growing pear 
tree known, fifteen feet in one season not being 
uncommon, yet it will not grow well when young, 
unless it has good, clean cultivation. 

We have often seen trees five years old that had 
not grown as much as they ought to have grown in 
two years 

HOW TO PLANT LECONTE PEAK TREES. 

When one jear old, LeConte pear trees are 
planted ; they should be cut back to within two feet 
from the ground, and allowed to branch at the 
ground, and never, under any circumstances, 
should a branch be cut or pinched off during the 
Summer. 

If the trees are two or three years old, they may 
be cut off a little higher, but in all cases they 
should be branched at the ground to make good 
trees. 

Distance to plant LeConte pear trees, is twenty- 
five to thirty feet. 

A good way to grow a few pear trees, is to plant 
them in the garden, and continue to make a gar- 
den all the same. As they run their roots down. 
they do not take much from the soil, and as their 
tops grow up, they make little shade, hence the}- 
will not injure the garden much, for about five 
years^ then they will be of bearing size, and will 
pay well for the room they occupy. 



—10— 

THE CULTIVATION. 

There is nothing more important than good cul- 
tivation for LeConte pear trees, and they should 
be cultivated the entire Summer and Fall, in order 
to get the best growth possible, and make strong. 
healthy trees. Many of the LeContes planted in 
this country are not worth half what they ought to 
be, for want of proper cultivation when young. 
The cultivation required for cotton is the best 
that can be given to young LeConte pear trees ; 
but we shall have occasion to speak of this more 
fully under the head of Cultivation of Fruit Trees. 

PRUNING LE CONTE PEAR TREES. 

When LeConte pear trees are one year planted 
the largest upright branches should be cut back 
one-half, and so much of the shorter branches as 
is required to cut the top of the tree square off. 
Leave all the lower branches and let them spread 
out as far as possible. 

The second year the}^ should be pruned the 
same as the first, being sure to leave all the side 
branches. After this, they will not usually need 
any mure pruning, but the cultivation should go 
on the same, for at least live years, when they 
ought to be bearing. After that, if the trees are 
well mulched, with a horse cart load around each 
tree, they will not require any more cultivation. 

LeContes naturally grow tall, and when they are 



—11— 

planted very closely, or if there are other large 
trees or buildings near them, they will grow much 
higher to get the light and air, hence if you wish 
your trees to grow low, give them room to spread, 
encourage the side branches, and never prune 
them up from the bottom. 

LK CONTE PEAR TREES FROM CUTTINGS. 

It is said that LeConte pear trees wiil grow from 
cuttings, which is true, but LeContes will grow 
from cuttings no better than some other pears, and 
it will not pa} T any one outside of the nursery 
business to try to grow LeConte pear trees from 
cuttings, for they will not, generally, get more 
than from two to five per cent, to grow, and 
oftener none at all. 

Nurserymen often get only a small per cent to 
grow, with all the care the}' can give, for if the 
cuttings get a little too hot or too cold, too wet or 
too dry, they are gone and nothing can save them. 

The secret of growing cuttings of any kind, is 
to keep an even temperature and moisture, and this 
requires more preparation and attention than most 
folks are able to give. 

Some persons think it only necessary to put a 
twig in the ground and they will have a LeConte 
pear tree the next year, but they make a mistake 
when they try it. The truth is the trees are hard 
to make, and even nurserymen often make splen- 
did failures. 



— 12— 

THE AGE AT WHICH THE LE CONTES BEAK FRUIT. 

With good care the}^ will bear some fruit when 
four years planted, and ought to bear at least one 
bushel to the tree five years after planting, and 
from four to seven bushels in six or eight years. 

We grew this year six bushels of fine fruit on a 
very large five year old tree, which sold readily for 
eighteen dollars. 

We had other trees equally good, but we did not 
keep a separate account of the fruit. 

THE TIME OF RIPENING. 

LeConte pears never ripen on the trees ; they 
must be picked and ripened in the house ; a cool, 
dark place is best. 

We usually commence picking and shipping 
about July 15th ; when they will require about ten 
days to ripen. 

In picking LeConte pears, care should be taken 
to pick the largest, as the smaller ones if left on 
the tree, will continue to grow for several weeks. 
They can be shipped any distance desired, in 
baskets, boxes or barrels. They will reach their 
destination in good condition, and ripen while in 
transit. 

LeContes will always sell well in Northern mar- 
kets, as the season in which they ripen is before 
most other pears; besides LeContes are large, and 
large fruits always sell well. 



—13— 

The flavor of the LeConte when well ripened is 
equal to the Bartlett. 

The main crop should be picked for market in 
July, but where you have a plentiful supply, some 
may be left on the trees, which will continue till 
September. 



CHAPTER IV, 



THE KIEFFER PEAR 

The Kieffer is the largest good pear known, often 
weighing tis high as a pound and a half. It is as 
prolific as it is large, bearing well the third season 
after planting. The Kieffer more nearly resembles 
the Chinese Sand pear, than the LeConte does, 
though they are both seedlings of the Chinese Sand 
pear, and great improvements on the original stock. 

The Kieffer was grown from seed of the Chinese 
Sand pear, by Peter Kieffer, near Philadelphia, and 
bore its first fruit in 1871, when the tree was only 
two years old. 

Like the LeConte, it thrives in the Gulf States. 
and makes a good, healthy growth, from early 
Spring till late in the Fall. 

It does not grow as fast as the LeConte, and in 
order to make good trees, should be grafted on 
LeConte stocks, which make much better trees, as 



—14— 

they have the vigor of the LeConte combined with 
the early fruitfulness of the Keiffer, besides the 
LeConte never grows any suckers, which are often 
very annojing with other pears. 

The young trees should be cut off to two feet 
when planted, branched low to the ground and 
never pruned. 

The}- may be planted twent}' to twenty-five feet 
apart, and should have good, clean cultivation, the 
same as cotton, the entire Summer and Fall. 

The Kieffer is a good tree to plant in a small 
garden, as it bears a great deal of fruit, and takes 
up but little room. It is not as tall or large a tree 
as a LeConte. 

The Kieffer pear when grafted on LeConte 
stocks, will grow on any kind of soil that will 
grow good corn or cotton, but rich clay is best to 
produce large fruit. 

TIME OF RIPENING. 

The Kieffer pear ripens from the middle to the 
last of September, but if left on the tree will con- 
tinue to grow till late in October. 

The Kieffer when well ripened is a rich, high fla- 
vored pear, but like the LeConte it never ripens on 
the tree. It must be carefully gathered and ripen- 
ed in a cool, dark place. 

The trees generally bear too much, and require 
to be thinned out, to keep them from breaking 



— 15— 

down, as well as to make the fruit left on large 
and fine. 

Thin the fruit early in July, and again about 
the middle of August. Each time putting the 
fruit away until it begins to turn 3'ellow, when it 
will make preserves of fine flavor, equal to the 
best Orange Quince. In fact it is not necessary to 
plant quinces in this climate (where they are shy 
bearers) when we have the Kieffer pear which will 
bear sooner, better fruit, and four times as much 
of it. The fact is, the Kieffer will be the great 
canning and preserving pear for the South, as it 
ripens late and can be worked up in cool weather. 



CHAPTER Y 

PLUM TREES. 



Plums are a good fruit to cultivate in the Gulf 
States and will generally produce good crops. 
But if they fail sometimes it is no more than other 
things do, for failure is easier than success in 
growing plums as well as anything else. They are 
not much injured by water, as most other fruits, 
consequently they may be grown where other 
fruits will not succeed at all. 

The soil best adapted to plums is stiff clay, 
though any soil that will pack down hard will pro- 



—In- 
duce good plums. The same cultivation that you 
would give to cotton is good while the trees are 
young ; but when they are bearing size there is 
nothing so good as chopping the weeds arid grass 
off clean with a hoe several times a year. This, 
may seem like a big job, but it is surprising how 
much ground a man will chop over in a day pro- 
vided the work has not been neglected too long. 

Plant the same depth the trees stood in the nur- 
sery, and plant several varieties in the same row, 
having no two of the same variety next each other. 
In this way the varieties will fertilize each other, 
and some good varieties which are rather sh}^ bear- 
ers will bear bountifully. This will make no differ- 
ence with the quality of the fruit, though the seed 
Avill not be likely to produce the same as the tree 
from which it is taken. 

The curculio often injures plums, especially if the 
spring is late ; if the spring opens early they are 
not apt to be troublesome, as the fruit is set before 
they come. 

A good preventive of these insects is to rub the 
trunk and large limbs of the trees with a cake of 
common bar soap just before the buds start. Also 
throw around under each tree one gallon of com- 
mon salt ; this, we think, will help to keep the in- 
sects away. 

Stable manure is best for plum trees if your land 
is poor. 



—17— 

Chickasaw plums, of which there are many 
varieties, are best adapted to this climate. 

The following varieties are good for market or 
home use : 

CADDO CHIEF. 

The earliest good plum, bright red. fair size, 
good quality and ripens in May. 

echo. 
The largest early plum known, oblong, bright 
pink, grows well and bears well. Ripens with the 
Caddo Chief. 

WILD GOOSE. 

A seedling of the Chickasaw, which it resem- 
bles very much, though a little larger and later. 

CUBA. 

A large yellow plum of dwarf habits. From 
Cuba. Ripens early. 

PARSONS. 

One of the best late plums and makes a beauti- 
ful tree. The leaf is as large as an apple, and the 
wood is as smooth as a French prune. The fruit 
is dark red, flavor fine. Ripens in August. 

UOLDEN BEAUTY. 

This is a marvel of beauty and astonishes all 
who see it. Large, rich, golden yellow. Very firm 
and nearly a freestone. Ripens in September. 



— 18- 



CHAPTER 1ZL 

JAPANESE FRUITS. 

Strange as it may appear, though comparatively 
few of the Northern fruits succeed really well in 
the Gulf States, yet we have never found a failure 
among the Japanese and Chinese fruits. 

Japanese ornamental plants and shrubs succeed 
equally as well as the fruits, and to know that any 
tree, plant, or shrub, comes from Japan, is evi- 
dence that it will succeed well in the Gulf States. 

LOQUAT (IMPROPERLY CALLED JAPAN PLUM.) 

The Loquat is a beautiful, large leaved, ever- 
green tree, which has been grown here for a long 
time under the name of Japan plum. But it is 
not a plum, it belongs to the Mespilus family, with 
the specific Japanese name of Loquat. 

Of late years several varieties of plums have 
been introduced from Japan. We give each tree its 
proper name as far as possible. We wish it under- 
stood, when we speak of Japan plums, we mean 
real plums, not Loquats. 

The Loquat is a handsome, ornamental tree, and 
as it doe? not grow in pyramidal form it makes a 
fine small shade tree. It grows well in the Gulf 
States, and will stand considerable cold, but does 
not bear well far from the Gulf Coast, as it re- 



— 19— 

verses the order of things, blooming in the Fall, 
and ripening its fruit in the early Spring. Even if 
it does not mature its fruit, it is well worth plant- 
ing for its handsome foliage and fragrant flowers. 

JAPAN PLUMS. (PRUNUS JAPONICA.) 

For a few years past, the Japanese plums have 
been creating quite a sensation in the Southern 
States, where the trees grow well ; but it is too 
soon to say how well they will bear fruit in all our 
different localities. 

Like other plums, a stiff clay soil is best, 
though they will grow anywhere if the soil is rich. 

These plums range in size more like a peach 
than a plum, as some weigh four ounces. 

The following are the best varieties: 

BOTANKIA. (KNOWN AS KELSEY. ) 

A large, greenish, red. heart-shaped plum, often 
weighing four ounces. Rather firm, with small 
seed ; fine flavor. Ripens in August. 

BOTAN PLUM. 

A rapid growing tree, with very large, reddish 
yellow fruit, which ripens in August. 

OGON PLUM. 

A large, yellow variety, which is said to ripen 
early. We have not fruited it yet. 

PRUNUS SIMONI (APRICOT PLUM.) 

This new plum is a native of Northern China 



—20— 

and is a valuable fruit. It resembles a flattish, 
brick-red tomato. The flavor is delicious and the 
perfume is exquisite. 



JAPAN PERSIMMONS. 

The value of the Japan persimmon and its merit in 
comparison with other fruits is not yet fully known. 
This fruit has been brought to the greatest perfec- 
tion in Japan by selecting the finest varieties, and 
grafting and giving good cultivation. Like peach- 
es and apples, they do not produce the same from 
seed; in fact, the finest varieties have no seed. 

The different varieties in Japan are as numerous 
as apples in the United States. Some ripening in 
October, while others will keep till March. 

Some are fine for eating in a raw state, while 
others are used for drying, like prunes or figs. This 
process is done in Japan "by picking the immature 
astringent fruit, and drying it after peeling the 
skin with a knife. This dried fruit is packed in 
wooden cases, covered lightly with a lid, when the 
white saccharine substance appears upon the sur- 
face of the fruit, as with prunes or figs, to which 
latter it is equal in flavor." 

By some persons this fruit is not considered 
good, for the reason they get the wrong kind, or 
some not properly ripened. They are never good 
if ripened in a light, dry place. Put them in a 



—21— 

cold, dark place, where they will collect a little 
moisture, and when they do ripen no one will 
call them astringent or tasteless, or anything but 
good. 

They begin to ripen in October, but -'the crop" 
does not generally ripen until after a good frost. If 
it be desired to keep them a long time they should 
be gathered before frost, and packed away in a 
dry, cool place If you wish to ripen some 
quickly, leave them on the tree until after a hard 
frost, or if you have already gathered, put them 
out of doors at night where they will freeze, when 
you thaw them out they will be ripe. 

The soil best adapted to the Japan persimmon is 
the same as where our native varieties grow. In 
size this fruit is about as large as our apples, 
weighing from six to twelve ounces. The color is 
generally orange or vermillion, and it is the most 
beautiful on the tree of any fruit we know. The 
tree being suited to the climate, bears bountifully 
when quite young. We think it a good fruit for 
the South as it keeps well, ships well, and is in 
much demand in Northern markets, while it Cannot 
be grown except in the South. 

Most of the Japan persimmon trees sold in this 
country are imported from Japan, as they are very 
hard to make in this climate. Consequently they 
will sell for a high price for some time to come. 



—22— 

The best varieties are the Kurokume, Hyakume 
and Yumato. 

Good cultivation is of the greatest importance 
when the trees are young. 



CHAPTER VII, 



THE PEACH. 

The latitude from 33 to 36 degrees, and a little 
further both North and South on the Atlantic- 
Coast, is the peach belt of the United States ; con- 
sequently fine peaches will grow there, with very 
little cultivation and often with no cultivation 
whatever, but as you go North or South, from the 
peach belt, more care and trouble is required, de- 
pending on the locality. In the North the winters 
are so cold that trees are often frozen to death, 
unless very hardy varieties are planted and a shel- 
tered situation selected. 

In the South the Winters are so short, that the 
trees do not get rest enough to make the buds 
push with vigor sufficient to make fruit, conse- 
quently many varieties bear but sparsely here. 

But no matter where it is planted, the peach 
must have good drainage, as it will not succeed 
well with water around the roots. Rich, sandy 



-23- 



soil, where there is no trans> nation Mater, is the 
best place for peaches. 

Peach trees are budded by nurserymen, so they 
can always tell precisely what varieties they have 
for sale ; as the tree will always be the same as 
the one from which the bud is taken, no matter 
what kind of a peach the root is. 

Budded peaches are not as certain a crop as 
seedlings, in this climate, but if you want certain 
named varieties, or very early ones, you musi 
plant budded trees, and take the risk of the crop. 

Seedling trees last much longer, and are more 
certain bearers, but nurserymen do not make 
them, because they can not guarantee them in any 
particular, as to time of ripening, whether free or 
cling stones, or even color of the peach. Seed- 
lings seldom produce the same variety, yet good 
peaches are often grown from seed, and when good 
varieties are obtained they make the best trees, as 
they last a long time, and bear good crops of 
fruit. 

Yellow peaches more generally produce the 
same from seed, than white or red varieties. The 
following is a good way to grow peach seed : 

In the Fall or early Winter make a smooth, level 
place in the garden, and put down a layer of peach 
seed, cover them with about half an inch of earth. 
When the ground freezes the seed will also freeze 
and they will sprout and grow in the Spring. 



—24— 

Select a place where you want a row of peach 
trees, and take the little plants, as soon as up, 
with the seed attached, and plant them four feet 
apart in the row. Then plant another row fifteen 
feet from the first, and so on till you have planted 
all your desire. The ground between the peach 
rows may be planted in some kind of a low, grow- 
ing hoed crop. 

If the young trees are well cultivated, they will 
bear in two years, when the mean ones can be dug 
up, and the good ones left. I speak of planting 
four feet apart, as we usually get from seed about 
one good tree in four. Be sure to dig up every 
bad one, and let the good ones have a chance to 
grow. 

Small peach trees are always best for planting 
as they can be dug up with the roots more perfect 
and the long life of the peach tree depends on the 
perfection of the roots when planted. 

Never plant large peach trees, if you can avoid 
it, for they will certainly be short lived. Get 
small trees, cut them off one foot from the ground, 
and never prune them up from the ground. 

Every Winter the branches may be shortened in 
to keep the heads round and low, which will give 
plenty of bearing wood for the following year. If 
the trees grow fast there will be from six inches 
to a foot and a half of wood at the ends of the 
branches, outside the fruit buds, which may be cut 



—25— 

off, without detriment to the tree, and thereby 
much improving the fruit. Care should be taken 
not to cut back far enough to cut away too many 
of the fruit buds, which are easily distinguished 
from leaf buds, as they are usually double. 

In regard to varieties, every nurseryman claims 
to have the earliest and best ; but all succeed in 
some localities and fail in others. 

The following list will be found sufficiently largt 
to select from, for home use, and we would not 
advise any one to plant peaches largely, for mar- 
ket, in this climate : 

ARKANSAW TRAVELLER. 

This is conceded by all nurserymen to be the 
earliest peach known. It comes to us well recom- 
mended. We have not fruited it yet. 

brigg's red may. 

Medium size, highly colored, of fine flavor and 
very prolific. 

AMSDEN. 

The leading and most reliable early peach of 
Baltimore. The tree bears well and fruit of fin^ 
size. Ripens in June. 

ALEXANDER. 

A seedling of the Amsden, which it resembles 
very much, though a little larger and a little later. 



-26- 



EARLY RIVERS. 

Large, light, straw color, with pink cheek ; juicy, 
with rich flavor. 

hyne's surprise. 
Resembles the Alexander, but perfectly freestone. 

elberta. 
Very large and high flavored. A Southern 
needling. 

AMELIA. 

A very large, highly colored peach. Originated 
in Georgia. 

FOSTER. 

A large, yellow peach. Ripens last of June. 

CHINESE CLING. 

One of the finest peaches for the South. The 
tree grows well and bears regular crops of very 
large fruit. Ripens last of July. 

RING OLD'S MAMMOTH CLING. 

Said to be the largest peach known. Good 
quality, and always sells for a high price. 

BLOOD CLING. 

An old peach, of fair quality, and a general 
favorite wherever planted. Ripens in August. 



-27- 



THURBER. 

A freestone peach, a seedling of the Chinese 
Cling, originated in Georgia and comes well 
recommended as one of the best late peaches for 
the South. 

picquet's late. 

Very large, yellow peach, with red cheek. Rich, 
sweet, and of the highest flavor. The best of all 
the late peaches. 

nix's LATE. 

A very large, late, white cling of the finest 
quality. A sure bearer. 

NECTARINES. 

The Nectarine is a peach with a smooth skin, 
and originally came from peach seed. In fact, if 
Nectarine seed are planted they more often pro- 
duce peaches than Nectarines. The fruit is nevei 
very large, and being budded, they are uncertain 
bearers in this latitude, hence, unless the smooth 
skin is an object, we would advise you to let Nec- 
tarines alone. 

They require the same care, soil and cultivatior 
as the peach. 



— 28- 



CHAPTER 1TIIL 

APPLES FOR THE GULF STATES. 

It is thought by many persons that it is useless 
to plant apples in this climate ; but our experience 
convinces us that good apples may be grown here 
if the right varieties are selected. 

When people bestow a little more thought and 
study upon fruit culture, they will find the}- can 
grow very good early apples — such as ripen 
in June and July — but every variety will not 
succeed. 

In order to succeed with* apples here, Southern 
varieties must be planted. We have tried thirty 
varieties, and find among them four worth plant- 
ing, which will produce good fruit, in paying 
quantities. Many others will produce some good 
fruit, but do not bear enough to pay for their 
trouble. 

The Early Red Streak, is one of our best apples. 
The tree grows well, bears .bountifulty, and fruit 
ripens perfectly in July. The size is fine and the 
rtavor good. 

The Early Harvest is our earliest apple. It 
often ripens the last of May. The tree is a rather 
slow grower, but hardy and bears young. 

The Red June and Yellow June are both good 
apples, and succeed well. Ripen in June. 



-29 



It will be noticed that we do -not recommend any 
late varieties, though there may be some, but we 
have not found them, that will bear fruit in paying 
quantities. 



CHAPTER IX 



FIGS. 

Figs grow well, and bear abundantly in all the 
Gulf States, and we strongly advise every one who 
has room, to plant a few fig trees for family use. 

Almost any soil, unless low and wet, will grow 
good figs. They should be planted thirty feet apart, 
and if it seems a great distance, you must remember 
that fig trees attain great age and size, and it is 
best to give them plenty of room, and utilize the 
space between them for plum or peach trees, or 
anything that can be removed when the figs 
require the room. 

Fig trees need no pruning except to train to one 
stem, by cutting down the suckers, so as to force 
the growth into the main trunk. If this be done 
for two or three seasons, the tree will grow rapidly 
and harden its wood, so as to endure any cold that 
we have during winter. 

They begin to bear the second year after plant- 



—30— 

iug, but do not come into full bearing until nine or 
ten years old. 

The fig is a delicious fruit, whether fresh, dried, 
preserved or crystalized, and if we could be cer- 
tain of good weather, at the time of ripening, it 
would be one of our most profitable orchard crops 
for canning or preserving on an extensive scale. 
The heavy rains we are liable to have during 
"Fig Season" make it too uncertain a crop for one 
to venture. 



CHAPTER X, 



QUINCE TREES. 

Some varieties of quinces grow well in this cli- 
mate, and are worth planting for their large size, 
and beautiful appearance. 

The Orange quince is of a bright, golden yel- 
low, and the finest flavored of all quinces, but 
rather a shy bearer, and in some localities will not 
bear at all. 

The Hong Kong is a Chinese variety, and like 
all the Chinese fruits, succeeds well here. It 
grows to a large tree, and is very ornamental, 
with fruit often weighing more than two pounds, 
which will remain on the tree until December. 

Quince trees require rich soil and a gallon of 
salt every year to each tree will help them to grow 
and bear well 



-31 



CHAPTER XL 

THE ORANGE. 

Of oranges there are many varieties which 
grow well in Florida, and all along the Gulf, in 
sheltered situations, but do not stand the climate 
well in the interior. Sour and bitter oranges arc 
the most hardy, and are often used as stocks for 
the sweet varieties ; they are also often used for 
shade and ornamental evergreens in localities 
where the sweet varieties will not grow at all 



CHAPTER XII, 



STRAWBERRY CULTURE. 

Probably no country in the world can equal the 
Gulf States in growing fine strawberries. Our 
rich soil, mild climate and moist atmosphere, all 
tend to make the fruit very fine and keep the 
plants a long time in bearing. 

By planting in the proper soil, giving good cul- 
ture and a liberal supply of water in dry weather, 
it is easy to have this delicious fruit for three or 
even four consecutive months. 

Where land is plentiful, the place for strawber- 



—32— 

ries should be selected a year in advance, and kept 
cleanly cultivated, so there will be as little grass 
and weeds to contend with as possible. 

THE SOIL. 

If we could have our choice in soil, we would 
prefer a rich, sandy loam, but any kind of land 
will grow fine strawberries, provided it is rich ; if 
it is stiff cla}% a liberal supply of well rotted 
stable manure should be used to make it loose and 
friable. 

The best varieties to plant for common cultiva- 
tion are Wilson's Albany and Crescent Seedling- 
mixed. We say mixed, as the Crescent is not per- 
fect in its flowers, and will not bear well by itself, 
but when mixed with some perfect flowering kind, 
it bears bountifully. The Sharpless is a fine straw- 
berry, very large and beautiful, and bears well in 
this climate. We could give a long list of varie- 
ties, with their relative merits, but our space will 
not permit us to do so now. 

Always buy plants near home, so as to have 
them as fresh as possible, though they may cost a 
little more than from a long distance away ; often 
so many will die bj T long transportation, that, what 
you have left will not be found cheap ; besides 
those that do grow, will start so feebly that they 
will not bear much the first year. 

November is the best month for planting, though 



—33— 

with a wet October, they might be planted a little 
sooner. If the fall is very dry, it is better to wait 
till December, as the plants do not grow well if 
set out in ver}< dry weather. 

In preparing the ground for garden culture, 
spade it very deep and give a liberal supply of 
well rotted stable manure ; set the plants two in 
each place, two feet apart each way. We prefer 
this to planting single plants eighteen inches apart, 
as we get about the same number of plants on the 
ground. They produce equally as much, and it is 
less work to cultivate them. 

For field culture, plow in broad, flat beds, six 
feet wide and very deep. Put a liberal supply of 
well rotted manure in the middle of the beds and 
mix it well with the soil. Plant two rows on each 
bed, eighteen inches apart and two feet apart in 
the row ; having the plants in one row opposite the 
space in the other. There should be two plants in 
each place, the same as in garden culture. Guard 
against getting the beds too high, as they will not 
hold the moisture so well as broad, flat ones. The 
wide space between the rows — about 4^ feet — can 
be worked with a horse and cultivator ; a plow is 
too coarse an implement for strawberry culture, 
and the narrow space can be worked with a hoe. 
The advantage of double rows is, the wide, flat 
beds hold the moisture better than single rows, 
and the berries can be picked more conveniently. 



—34— 

without walking on the beds, which is quite detri- 
mental to the plants during the wet weather in 
April. Give good cultivation, keeping the ground 
loose and mellow on the top ; do not cultivate 
deep, especially near the plants. 

The varieties mentioned above do not make 
many runners till they are about done bearing, but 
it is well to cut them off as they appear, by so 
doing the season of bearing may be lengthened. 

As to early and late varieties, there is very little 
difference here ; if it is a warm, rainy Fall and Win- 
ter, you will have some blooms and berries from 
November on till the main crop begins with the 
April rains. This crop continues till the supply of 
water on the blossoms and fruit gives out. Water 
is one of the best fertilizers of strawberries ; not 
onty must the roots be moist, but the leaves, 
flowers and fruit must have an even, and plentiful 
supply. If when the spring showers cease, you can 
afford to water them, you can have a plentiful sup- 
ply of berries for at least four months, that is, till 
July. In the North and West the strawbem- sea- 
son is about three weeks long, and of course all 
the berries of a crop ripen at once. But in our 
favored climate, by a little pains, it may be pro- 
longed indefinitely. 



35- 



CHAPTER XIII 



GRAPES. 

The latitude for which we write this, cannot be 
called good for any grape except the Scuppernong. 

The climate is too damp, and with a wet July, 
when most grapes ripen, they will rot badly, or they 
will not ripen at all. But if they are planted on 
high, sand soil, and the weather is favorable, some 
beautiful grapes may be grown in this climate. 

In spite of many failures, grapes are worth 
planting in favorable localities, as, by giving the 
vines good cultivation, you can have a good crop 
of well ripened grapes in one year and a half after 
planting the vines. 

There are many varieties claiming a high reputa- 
tion for ripening well, but we generally find that 
the location is favorable, and the season has^ much 
to do with the ripening of the fruit. 

Good varieties for the climate are Concord. 
Herbemont, Catawba, Iona, Hartford, Prolific and 
Deleware. 

PLANTING. 

Plant vines with good roots. If they are small, 
all the better. Cut the tops off within four inches 
of the ground. Dig broad holes, deep enough to 



—36— 

cover all the roots three or four inches deep. 

When the vines have well started to grow, rub 
off all but the two best shoots. Let these run as 
far as they will. 

A couple of stakes will do for the vines to run 
on the first year. 

The second year you will need a trellis ; this can 
be made of barbed wire on posts, like a fence, or 
common No. 10 wire, or slats, are equally good. 

The second } r ear, about December, the strong 
vines should be cut back one half and tied to the 
trellis. 

A good rule for pruning grape vines is, cut the 
strong vines back one-half, and cut the weak ones 
out altogether. 

THE SCUPPERNONG GRAPE. 

This differs as widely from other grapes as 
peaches do from plums ; and require far more dif- 
ference in the treatment and cultivation. For while 
other grapes require pruning to make them bear, 
the Scuppernong will not bear if pruned like other 
grapes. 

Scuppernong vines do not grow from cuttings, 
but must be made from layers : when rooted the 
layers should be cut away from the main vine 
and allowed to grow one year in the nursery, in 
order to make good, strong vines for planting. 

Sandy soil is best adapted to the scuppernong. 



—37— 

though the vines grow anywhere, and will stand 
considerable water, but they do not usually bear 
well on bottom lands, though they do well on clay 
loam with hard subsoil. On rich, alluvial lands 
root pruning, or cramping the roots in any way. 
will force them to bear. 

PLANTING. 

First ascertain if your land is adapted to grow- 
ing scuppernongs, if it is, you can plant them 
with a confidence that they will succeed. 

Then prepare the ground the same as for any 
other crop. Dig holes four inches deep and 
wide enough to straighten out all the roots. Plant 
forty feet apart, and cultivate the same as cotton. 
the entire Summer and Fall. Put down a good 
stake to each vine, for the first year ; when the 
vines have well-started to grow, leave one or two 
of the best shoots, and rub off all the others. 

The land between the vines may be planted in 
any kind of a hoed crop ; the vines will not be 
much in the way. 

If the vines grow well, they will need an arbor 
the second year, which should be made as follows : 

Put down four posts ten feet apart, in a square, 
with a vine in the center. Cover the top with 
strong slats and as the vines grow, spread them 
out as evenly as possible on the arbor, and tie 
them down to keep the wind from blowing them 



-38- 



all into one bunch. The more even the vines are 
spread on the arbor, the better they will bear. 

The arbor may be extended on either side at 
any time, as the vines grow. 

Six and a half, or seven feet, is the most conve- 
nient height for the arbor. 

The scuppernong is well suited to this climate 
and lives to a great age. 

It commences to bear about the fourth Sum- 
mer after planting. 

The fruit begins to ripen the first of August and 
continues till October. It is delicious, with a fine 
musky odor. Fine for preserves and jelly, and 
will in time be the great wine grape of the South. 

This vine has no insect enemies, and the fruit 
always ripens well, consequently it is becoming 
more and more popular as its worth is known. 



CHAPTER XRZ", ' 

TRANSPLANTING FRUIT TREES. 

In planting an orchard, the ground should be 
plowed in broad, flat beds, with deep furrows be- 
tween the rows, to carry off the water. Decem- 
ber and January are the best months for trans- 
planting fruit trees. 

In this climate fruit trees should be closely 



—39— 

pruned at the time of planting-. Trees should 
generally be cut back one-half, or more, that is. if 
the tree is six feet high it should be cut back to 
three feet ; if four feet, cut back to two feet. 

In transplanting LeConte pear trees, we gen- 
erally cut them back to two feet ; even if they are 
six or eight feet high. 

When trees are received from the nursery, the 
roots should be immediately covered in the 
ground, and taken out as wanted for planting. It 
is a very bad practice to have a number of trees 
lying in the sun while planting. 

THE DISTANCE TO PLANT TREES. 

Pear and apple trees should be planted 20 or 25 
feet apart ; but if it be desirous to plant pear and 
peach trees on the same ground, the pear trees 
may be planted 30 feet and a peach tree between 
them. If peach trees are planted by themselves, 
15 feet is a good distance for them. Plum 
trees may be planted 12 feet. Figs should 
have the same distance as pears. 

When the holes are laid off, be sure and dig 
them big, and deep enough to take in all the roots 
without cramping ; throwing the dirt from the top 
of the ground on one side, and that deeper down 
on the other, so that when the tree is planted, all 
the dirt thrown in around it. will be taken from 
the top of the ground. 

Trees should be planted the same depth they 



—40— 

stood in the nursery. When the holes are dug, 
one person should hold up the tree while another 
throws the dirt, selecting fine, clean, rich dirt, 
without clods, sticks or manure, and throw it in 
loosely — when nearly filled up throw in a bucket 
of water to settle down the dirt, put a little dry 
dirt on top, and the job is finished. 

Guard against planting too deep. Trees plant- 
ed too deep will not flourish ; we often find good 
trees on good soil, but they will not grow, for no 
other cause than they are planted too deep. 



CHAPTER XV, 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES. 

A great deal has been said in times gone by 
about pruning trees, to produce fruitfulness, but 
tSiis craze is now exploded, and the motto now is. 
trees first and fruit afterwards. Trees that require 
pruning to make them bear, generally do not suit 
the climate or their location or soil, and all the 
pruning that can be done will not usually make 
them bear very much. 

Trees usually commence bearing well at about 
one-sixth their longevity , and all efforts to make 



—41— 

them bear sooner, is generally detrimental to th^ 
health of the tree. 

People often plant trees and give them no culti- 
vation, and they do not grow as much in five years 
as they ought to grow in two, and then wonder 
they do not bear fruit, and think something ought 
to be done to produce fruitfulness ; and they are 
right, something ought to be done, and that some- 
thing is cultivating and not pruning. People nat- 
urally love to prune, and hate to cultivate, con- 
sequently everybody prunes and very few cultivate 
their trees. When more cultivating is done, and 
less pruning, people will have more fruit. 

We seldom prune more than to bring the trees to 
proper shape, and would much prefer to let nature 
shape them, to pruning at all, for it is astonishing 
how perfectly she will do her work, though it may 
take years to do it. 

If trees are cut low when planted, and let 
alone where they have free air and light, with no 
shade near, they will generally form beautiful 
heads in two or three years; but if there is shade 
on one side they will turn towards the light, and 
all the pruning that can be done, will not make 
the trees assumes fine shapes. 

It is a ver}^ good idea to know how to prune a 
little, for, as a rule, people who prune at all gener- 
ally prune too much. 

We often hear a person say, I must prune up 



—42— 

my fruit trees ; it would be much better if they 
would prune them down, that is, keep them low. 

Fruit trees in this climate should always have 
low heads to protect the stems from the sun, and 
keep the roots cool in hot, dry weather. The 
Winter or early Spring, before the buds start, is 
the time for pruning. Summer pruning may some- 
times be advantageous, but it is so generally det- 
rimental that we say letting alone is the best Sum- 
mer, pruning. When you have pruned in the Win- 
ter let everything alone till the next year. At the 
time of planting, the trees should be cut back one 
half, or more if the tree is tall ; that is. if a tree 
is six feet, cut back to three feet. 

Pear trees should be branched at one foot from 
the ground as they will naturally do if cut back as 
recommended above 

Every WMnter for two years one-half of the past 
year's growth should be cut off from the top, and 
the side branches let alone. 

Apple and plum trees require very little pruning 
after planting. The apple should sometimes be 
thinned out a little, and the suckers cut away from 
the roots. 

For pruning peach trees we refer the reader to 
the article on peach culture 

Summer pruning consists in pinching back cer- 
tain shoots which are growing too rapidly, in order 
that weak ones may keep up with them and form 



43- 



fine shaped heads that suit the fancy of the fruit 
grower. 

This is a bad practice and we are thankful it is 
not very common. The most pernicious habit, and 
one of which ninety-nine fruit growers in every 
hundred is guilty of, is pulling the sprouts off the 
body of the tree from the ground up to the first 
branches. These should be left on, for if the tree 
roots make more sap than the top can utilize then 
the tree will make sprouts on the body. These 
sprouts will enlarge the body so that more sap can 
pass to the top and hence the top will grow more 
by the sprouts being left on during Summer. 

Every bud that is pinched off, and every sprout 
that is pulled off in Summer retards the growth of 
the tree, hence we say letting alone is the best 
Summer pruning. 

When fruit trees are transplanted they should be 
closely pruned, and given good cultivation, then 
let alone during Summer When Winter comes all 
sprouts may be cut off and the tree properly 
pruned. 

SUMMER PRUNING OF FIGS AND GRAPK VINES. 

Fig roots are generally planted out without 
much top, as the Winter usually kills the tops of 
young fig trees. When they have well started to 
grow all the shoots should be cut off except one, 
selecting of course the best. By keeping the 



—44— 

other shoots cut off the growth of the entire sea- 
son may be thrown into one stem, which will stand 
the following Winter much better than if all the 
shoots were allowed to grow. 

The Scuppernong grape should be trained to out- 
stem, and all other shoots kept off till it is long 
enough to put on an arbor overhead. Other grapes 
may be trained to two stems the first summer. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

WATERING PLANTS. 

Plants which are likely to require watering 
should be so planted that it can be done properly. 
Flower beds should be high enough to drain well, 
and yet be flat, with a little incline to the center. 
Small shrubs and trees should have the ground flat 
around them, with a ridge a foot from the tree to 
hold the water. 

When small plants are in a row, a drill may be 
made by the side, to keep the water from running 
away. This drill should be filled with water. 
When the water is soaked in fill the drill with dirt, so 
the moisture will not dry out quickly. If a crust 
has formed on the ground, break it up with a ho< 



_45— 

or rake before watering ; the water will soak h 
better and do more good. During a drouth, k 
good drenching once in two weeks is better than a 
slight watering every da} r . Many persons in a dry 
season shower their plants daily, thereby washing 
the foliage and flowers free from dust, who wonder 
why their plants did not grow and flourish. The} 
never noticed that the amount of water they put 
on, scarcely dampened the earth, and of courst 
the roots were perfectly dry. To such people wt 
say, you wash your face and hands this dry, dusty 
weather, but does that prevent thirst? Do you not 
sometimes take a good, big drink of water? Now 
that is the way with your plants, it refreshes then 
to wash the dust from their leaves, but their roots- 
are thirsty for a good drink of water. 

When they ask how much, we tell them to saturate 
the earth for at least a foot around each plant. A 
plant two or more feet high wants at least thret 
gallons at a time, and will flourish if given that 
amount once in two or three weeks, when it would 
droop, perhaps even die, if merely showered even 
day. 

MANURING FRUIT TREES. 

Much of our land in the Gulf States is so ricl 
it does not require manure for fruit trees, but some 
land would be greatly benefitted by it. 

Manure should be applied to bearing trees, ii 



—46 — 

Winter or early Spring, but young trees may be 
manured at any time before June, but they should 
not be manured later than that, as it will make too 
much Fall growth of wood, and lack fruit buds. 

Stable manure is good for all kinds of trees. 
It should be thrown on the top of the ground in 
the Winter, and should be used liberally if the 
land is poor. 

Cotton seed meal is one of the best manures to 
promote growth; it acts quickly, and if put on in 
March, will be exhausted by the end of the grow- 
ing season, so the wood will ripen up well. It is 
especially good for pear trees In applying cotton 
seed meal, and other fine commercial manures, the 
dirt should pe pulled away for about three feet, 
all around the tree, to the depth of two inches, the 
manure mixed with the dirt and then pulled back 
again. In this way, the double object is accom- 
plished of manuring and cultivating. 

Use one quart of cotton seed meal to each tree. 
Ashes are good for peach trees, one bushel to each 
tree. 

Kainit (German Potash) may be used for all 
kinds of bearing fruit trees, five to ten pounds to 
each tree. 

Ground bones are especially good for grape vines 

Some things, not manure in themselves, act very 
beneficially on the soil, especially for bearing trees. 

Salt thrown on the top of the ground, around 



—47— 

plum and quince trees, at the rate of from two to 
four quarts to the tree, will often make them bear 
profusely. 

Lime is good for bearing apple trees, four quarts 
to each tree. 

MULCHING. 

Mulching is putting around a tree or plant a 
quantity of litter, such as old hay, straw, corn- 
stalks, old grass, old baggasse, or almost anything 
that will cover up the ground and keep the grass 
down. 

Sawdust is not good, as it is apt to mix with the 
soil, is slow to rot, and does not keep the grass 
down. 

New baggasse should not be used for mulch, it 
contains too much acid, but old baggasse is good. 

Mulching is very important in Summer, especially 
with large trees, where it is not convenient to cul- 
tivate, but with young trees cultivation is always 
best. 

Mulching keeps the ground cool in hot weather, 
and moist in dry weather. 

Cotton seed makes the ground too warm and 
breeds insects and should not be used. 

TREE WASH. 

The following is good for the trunks and largv 
limbs of fruit trees. 

It should be put on about the time the buds 
start in the Spring : 



-48- 



WASH FOR PEAR TREES. 



One pournd of saltpetre, two pounds of salt, dis- 
solved in five gallons of water. 

W r ASH FOR PEACH AND PLUM TREES. 

One quart of coal oil, one pound of concentra 
red lye, dissolved in five gallons of water. 

WASH FOR APPLE TREES. 

One pound of sulphur, two quarts of lime, dis- 
solved in sufficient water to make white- wash. A 
little lamp black can be added, to make it dark 
colored. 

ANTS. 

In some places ants are destructive to fruit trees, 
hut by using the proper means, they are easy to 
get rid of. If trees are properly planted, ants are 
not apt to trouble them ; trees should be planted 
on broad, flat beds, with deep furrows between the 
rows to carry off the water, and the ground made 
a little lower where the tree stands. When it 
rains, the water will run down to the tree, and 
pass through the ground, to the furrows between 
the rows. Should the ants insist on working 
around a tree, make a levee around it and put in 
half a dozen buckets of water, and they will give 
you no more trouble. 



49 



CHAPTER XVII 



PECAN CULTURE. 

Much has been said and written of late about 
the profit of pecan culture, mostly by persons 
having no experience, either in growing the trees 
or gathering the nuts. We are not among the 
number who can see the profits of every business 
except the one we are engaged in, and cannot see 
the expenses. 

From the best information we can get, not one 
seedling tree in five will produce nuts like or even 
equal to those planted, and all the others will be 
so small they will not pay for gathering and ship- 
ping, consequently it will be necessary to plant 
5,000 trees to get 1,000 good ones. 

Though pecan culture is not very expensive, yet 
there is no good thing without some trouble and 
expense. We think it will pay if properly pros- 
ecuted, but not by planting seedling pecans, wait 
twenty years for them to bear, and then have four- 
fiths of them prove worthless. The trees should 
all be grafted from reliable bearing trees, of extra 
large size, which will enable you to know with cer- 
tainty — as with other grafted fruits — what kind 
you have ; they will bear fruit in about half the 



—50— 

time of seedlings, and the nuts will always sell 
for a high price. 

Good grafted pecan trees can be bought for fifty 
cents each ; they should be planted fifty feet apart, 
which allows about sixteen trees to the acre. The 
land can be cultivated in other crops, about as 
well for many years to come, as if there were no 
trees on it. 

The same cultivation that is proper for cotton. 
is good for pecan trees, they can be cultivated 
with the crop, and will bear much quicker for be- 
ing well cultivated. Young trees should be pro- 
tected from stock during winter. 



INDEX, 

Page 

introduction, - 5 

Pears, ------- 7 

The LeConte Pear. - - -8 

The Kieffer Pear. - - - - -13 

Plum Trees, - - - -. - - 15 

Japanese Fruits. ------ 1* 

Japan Persimmons, ----- 20 

The Peach, ----- 22 

Nectarines, - - - - - - -27 

Apples, ------ 

Figs, -.----• 

Quince Trees, '- - - 

The Orange, - - - - - - HI 

Strawberry Culture, ----- 31 

Grapes, ------- 35 

Scuppernong Grapes, - - - - - 36 

Transplanting Fruit Trees. - - - - 38 

Distance to Plant Trees. - - - - 39 

Pruning Fruit Trees, ----- 40 

Watering Plants, ----- 44 

Manuring Fruit Trees. 45 

Mulching Fruit Trees, - . - - 47 

Tree Wash, ------ 47 

Pecan Culture, - - 49 



30 



\mOUMT HOPE\ 

WASHINGTON, LA. 
\ Fruit Trees Grown in Louisiana for the jj 

THAT WILL PRODUCE FRUIT, j 

* 3L.E COISTTE PEAR TBEES, I 

KIEFFBR PEAR TREES, Ij 

FOUR VARIETIES OF 

JTAPAKBSB PLUMS, 

Which are very large; also a General As- j 
sortment of 

FRUIT TREES, EVERGREENS 1 

I Z1ND RUSES, I 

1 I 

| SEND FOR DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF FRUIT TREES, [ 
jj ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS AND ROSES. ADDRESS 

B T. JAY LACY, WASHINGTON, LA. I 

Jffl 



b 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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